More Sample Excerpts

Gien

In terms of French faience, Gien's appeal rivals that of Quimper in the eyes of many impassioned shoppers. Both started to pop up in every other speciality shop and mail-order catalogue throughout the U.S. around the same boom-time period of the late 1980s. With Baccarat as its U.S. distributor, how could Gien not become a near household name among home décor aficionados, lovers of French country or not?

Founded in 1821 by Englishman Thomas Hall, Gien has mastered the art of la tradition by conserving many of its classical patterns and a good number of its nineteenth-century techniques while constantly expanding its extensive tally of motifs in order to keep in step with today's tastes. One can easily flounder when describing a typical Gien design because there are so many of them, sweeping from traditional themes of Renaissance inspiration to more modern versions of French country, such as the popular blue and white basketweave pattern highlighted by brightly colored fruit. These décors are handmade rather than hand-painted, most of them are actually carried out by an old English technique which involves a sort of stenciling of colors on the plates as opposed to actual painting.

A tour of the manufactory can explain this process and many others far better than I, and certainly that is one of the reasons for traveling to this provincial town. The Gien museum may prove to be another, particularly if you are interested in purchasing one of the museum-quality reproductions of old patterns referred to as Gien tradition/fäience d'art. I suspect, though, that the real thrill of your visit will occur upon entering the large factory store, where shoppers push around grocery carts to stock up on favorite Gien patterns at savings of about 25 to 30 percent less than regular French retail prices. Many of the items are seconds, some may be discontinued, but no matter---every time I have come here I have zeroed in on at least half a cartful of items to buy!

  · place de la Victoire, 45500 Gien; tel.: 02.38.67.00.05; fax: 02.38.67.44.92; www.gien.com
Discount Store/Museum/Factory Visits
Boutique open Monday-Saturday 9 a.m.-noon and 2-6 p.m.

Museum open
   January and February
     daily 2-6 p.m.
   March - December
     Monday-Saturday 9 a.m.-6 p.m.;
     Sunday and holidays 10 a.m.-12:30 p.m. and 1:30-6 p.m.

Factory visits by appointment for groups only; tel.: 02.38.67.89.92.; fax: 02.38.67.44.92.

Bouches-du-Rhone
Les Ateliers Marcel Carbonel

A longtime presence in the religious history of Italian culture, artisanally made figurines have been used extensively to depict the nativity scene in all of its sweet splendor. Marseilles was one of the first ports of call for these miniatures, and their use became particularly widespread toward the end of the eighteenth century during the uprisings of the French Revolution. Developing more secular ways of expressing one's faith became imperative and it didn't take long for the santon (Provençal for "little saint") to catch on throughout the region.

Soon the faces of the characters of the nativity became those of the people of Provence. When looking at these caricatural figurines it is easy to forget their original purpose and the religious significance that they once primarily represented. They have, however, become symbolic of la Provence, and each one offers up a different vision of this enchanting land. Whether it be a woman gathering up a bunch of lavender or an old ripply faced man stooped over his workbench, every piece is handmade from start to finish out of terra-cotta clay and then handpainted in gouache with great agility. Prices start at about 49F for les puces (the mini-flea-like versions) and increase progressively to about 460F for the largest size (about six inches tall). Although the store sells the fully dressed ten-inch kind, the clothing and adornment of the traditional santon de provence is always painted on---not crafted out of cloth.

Fully respectful of the proper and most traditional way to craft the santons, Les Ateliers de Marcel Carbonel create miniature wonders of superior quality. A visit to their establishment is a must to see how santons are made. A look at the video and a tour around their private collection, which consists largely of figurines from distant countries, will complete your education of this anecdotal character of Provence.

 · 47 rue Neuve-Ste-Catherine, 13007 Marseille; tel.: 04.91.54.26.58; fax: 04.91.54.89.42;www.santonsmarcelcarbonel.com

Boutique/Museum
Open Monday-Saturday 8:30 a.m.-1 p.m. and 2-7 p.m.

Larressore (Pyrénées-Atlantiques)
Ainciart Bergara

As I stood in this busy little five-man workshop, I struggled to converse with Monsieur Charles Bergara above the incessant rat-a-tat-tat of the other craftsmen who were tapping out makilas, the walking sticks that are the ultimate symbol of the Basque spirit. Each person was at a certain stage of workmanship of their makila, a so-called walking stick that serves as both a decoration and a weapon for its proud bearer. As Monsieur Bergara stooped slightly in front of his 300-year-old workbench, he talked about how he was born into the makila and how this has been part of his family's tradition for the past seven generations. When I asked about the actual origins of these handsome objets, I received only a slight shrug, accompanied with an off-handed remark to the effect that it has always been part of la tradition basque.

Every makila that leaves the Bergara workshop represents a sort of "labor of love," whether it is destined for a French minister, an African king, an emir, or the Pope. The craftsmanship of these pieces represents some of the finest work in all of France; virtually every piece is unique, although they all begin with a specially treated wooden support, finished by a woven braid of leather, and topped off with a hand-engraved ornamentation delicately carved out of 18K gold, sterling silver, or buffalo horn. A bayonet traditionally is incorporated into the overall design as if to serve as a reminder of the Basque peoples' inherent concern for defending themselves. The sky's the limit as far as fantastical designs and prices go, but even if you place an order for a modest 3,000F piece crowned in silver, you still have to wait about eight months to receive it.

 · 64480 Larressore; tel.: 05.59.93.03.05; fax: 05.59.70.30.13; www.makhila.com
Open Monday-Saturday 8 a.m.-noon and 2-6:30 p.m.